Finishing up the Holiday Season

Yesterday marked the end of the major holiday season in Nepal. Over the weekend Nepalis celebrated Tihar. There are two main days during the multi-day celebration: Laxmi pooja, and Bhai Tikka (sp?). In addition to these main days, there are other days designated for worshiping dogs, crows and cows. I didn't notice too many dogs running around with flower garlands, but I certainly noticed Bhai Tikka, when sisters worship their brothers so that they live long lives. All the brothers have long tikkas (a mark on the middle of the forehead) in a variety of colors and glitter. They also wear the flower garlands.

For Laxmi pooja families decorate their homes and businesses to attract Laxmi, the goddess of wealth, in hopes that she will give them money in the coming year. They hang flower garlands, lights and candles to draw her into their home or business. Apparently the banks take the cake when it comes to light displays, because of course they need all the help they can get in attracting money. This year, the schedule was a little bit off kilter. People were confused which day was which, and on Friday the government announced that in addition to Monday, Tuesday would also be an official holiday. Only in Nepal will the government call Tuesday an official holiday on the Friday before...

My Tihar weekend was spent seeing the festivities, checking out some new areas and trying a few new restaurants. I bought my first true Nepali outfit on Friday -- my coworker helped me pick out a stylish Kurtha (like a cotton dress that everyone wears here). It will be good for my time in Nepal, and also will work well in Nigeria. Saturday I had a Nepali lesson, did some more shopping and then met up with a friend to go to Basantapur to see the lights. We bought some authentic Nepali candy, then wound our way through the streets, among the temples, fruit vendors and sight-seers to the top of the highest temple. We staked out a seat from where we could see the lights and candles lit for Laxmi pooja. An hour past sundown, and two bags of candy later, we realized there would be no lights. The confusion of the calendars meant that half the city celebrated Laxmi pooja on Saturday night, and the other half on Sunday... We were in the wrong half. So we left and went to eat dinner.

Sunday, the second day for Laxmi pooja, was a bit more successful. I went to Patan, a part of Kathmandu that was once considered a separate city entirely. It has its own temples and a stunning museum, which was closed... The main square was beautiful, with an amazing array of carved wood, from pillars to windows to crafts on display in storefronts. We happened upon a Buddhist temple that was just finishing up some service, so we caught a glimpse of the worshipers leaving the temple in a sort of parade. We wandered around the square, and enjoyed the lights as it grew dark.

I relaxed a bit on Monday. Most of the city was shut down for the holiday, so the streets were clear and manageable for pedestrians like myself. I walked into town and plopped myself down in the Garden of Dreams. I did a little work on my Nepali, and then read The Grapes of Wrath. Unfortunately, my day off was cut short when my boss called and asked me to come to the office to help her edit some documents. Luckily we didn't spend much more than 2 hours, and I was home by 9:30pm. Just one more day of craziness until the big meeting tomorrow, then it's all preparations for Nigeria until I leave Monday afternoon!

I hope you've noticed that I started a list of faves in Kathmandu on the left hand side of my blog. There are links to some of my favorite places thus far. Himalayan Java is definitely in the top three, as it has the best coffee I've had in Nepal. Not only that, but from reading their website, I've learned they're locally owned and buy locally grown coffee beans. Excellent! They also make a delicious honey latte.

Another bit of exciting news is that I received mail! Mom and Caroline sent cards to my CEDPA address (also listed on the side of my blog) and approximately three weeks after the post-mark, I got the cards! I wouldn't yet trust expensive packages, but letters are cards have successfully made it through the Himalayas, or over the Himalayas, and into my hands.

Also, congrats to Dell and her new baby girl. I can't wait until she comes wrapped in yak wool, strapped to Dell's back, during their mother-daughter trek through Nepal. ;)